Namibia with young children might sound like a somewhat, perhaps, for some… crazy idea? It didn’t seem that way to us, quite the opposite. After reading various accounts online, we were convinced that it could be a great adventure. At the time of our departure, our children were 3.5 years old (Nikoś) and just under 6 (Nella).
Namibia is the fifth sub-Saharan African country we’ve visited. We’ve already been to Uganda, Rwanda, Ethiopia, and South Africa. We’ve also been to Morocco and Egypt, which we don’t considered part of Africa.
We spent three weeks in Namibia. We travelled almost 5,000 kilometres.
During our stay, we had to make minimal changes to our plan (more on that below). We also couldn’t take advantage of one attraction – viewing the rock engravings of the San people in Twyfelfontein because, as it turned out upon arrival, our children were too young for the guided walk.
Apart from that, everything else went according to plan, and even better because the kids handled long drives remarkably well, and all the attractions were genuinely interesting to them. To the extent that on the only day warm enough to swim in the pool, they chose to search for lizards in the rock crevices…
Below is a record of our journey through Namibia with young children day by day. If you’re looking for practical information on travelling in Namibia, where to stay, what to consider when renting a car, what maps to use, what roads are like, check out the post: Namibia with Young Children – What to Know Before You Go.
Road Trip in Namibia with Young Children – Travel Journal
Below, I describe each day of our stay and what we saw. This should help you plan your own trip to Namibia. I like reading such day-by-day plans on other blogs before our trips because they always help me figure out how much time we need for each activity. I also write down our routes because they might be useful for someone.
Mariental – a stop on the way to Fish River Canyon and a wonderful lodge to welcome us to Africa
Day 1 of our journey.
We land around 7:00 in the morning. We leave the airport late because getting a visa and buying a SIM card takes an eternity (I write more about this in the post: Namibia with Young Children – What to Know Before You Go).
A representative from the car rental company is waiting for us at the airport. Together with other tourists, we head to their base, which is closer to Windhoek, about 30 minutes’ drive from the airport. Picking up the car takes us over 2 hours.
We stop at a Shell station to refuel and do some initial shopping. The shop at the station is exceptionally well-stocked, they literally have everything. We buy bread rolls, jam, bananas, apples, yogurts for the kids, and a few things for the next few days.
If we don’t plan to camp heavily and cook all meals ourselves, these purchases at the station are sufficient; you don’t need to look for a larger store. But it’s also worth buying some things here because there’s only a bigger store in Mariental.
Finally, around 12:00, we set off for our first overnight stay – Camelthorn Kalahari Lodge – 330 km south towards Fish River Canyon.
We arrive just before 4:00 in the afternoon, perfect timing to catch the afternoon sundowner drive, a mini-safari. In fact, even on the way to the lodge, we see zebras, various antelopes, and ostriches.
This was supposed to be just a stop on the way to Fish River Canyon so we wouldn’t have to do the incredibly long drive all at once. And the place turns out to be wonderful. Camelthorn is a lodge located in a private game reserve (an African invention – as I understand it, some areas with wildlife belong to the state, and some belong to private individuals, and you can go on safari in both types of areas). I didn’t read this when making the reservation, so we have a truly amazing surprise when we see antelopes and zebras right after crossing the gate…
The only thing that’s not great is the cold – our summer is Namibia’s winter. In addition, typical safari vehicles are raised and have no windows. It’s windy as hell. During the sundowner drive, we have scarves, hats, the kids have windproof hoodies, merino wool underneath, and we’re still freezing terribly.
Upon returning to the lodge, a surprise awaits us – a private campfire, a beautifully set table, a buffet dinner with delicious food – there are oryx steaks, and they melt in your mouth.
As if all this wasn’t enough, when we get back to our cabin, we discover that hot water bottles are placed under our blankets… After a warm shower, after 30 hours since leaving home in Warsaw, we finally jump into our beds.
A wonderful end to our first day in Africa!
WHERE WE STAY: Camelthorn Kalahari Lodge
Namibia – Quiver Tree Forest & Giant Playground
Day 2 in Namibia.
Today’s plan includes driving from Camelthorn to Fish River Canyon, about 350km, mostly on asphalt. We wake up late, and we really don’t want to get out from under our warm blankets. It’s not hot outside at all; in fact, it’s quite chilly – we have breakfast on the terrace wearing sweaters. We don’t leave the lodge until after 11:00.
We stop in Mariental to refuel. Unfortunately, the 4WD light comes on, and the car won’t switch to two-wheel drive mode. We have to go to a Toyota service center. Luckily, there’s one in this town… which speaks to how tourist-oriented this country is. But locals also mostly drive Hiluxes.
After about 30 minutes, it’s sorted out (we don’t actually know what happened, but they told us to continue, and we didn’t have such problems afterward). We don’t do any more grocery shopping because we’re in a bit of a hurry (a long road ahead). Later, we regret it because we can’t find anything to buy until Luderitz (there are no shops, and the gas stations are very poorly stocked).
This day involves a lot of driving on asphalt. We only hit gravel when we divert from the route to see the Quiver Tree Forest and Giant Playground. Then, the entire C12 road to Canyon Roadhouse is gravel as well.
Quiver Trees Forest and Giant Playground are next to each other (a few kilometres apart), and it’s worth visiting, especially with children. Our kids have a blast – running around the rocks, climbing – perfect after spending so many hours in the car! You can spend anywhere from a few minutes to an hour walking around. Unfortunately, we’re in a hurry to get back to the lodge before dark.
The access to Quiver Tree Forest is a bit confusing because you drive through someone’s farm (hmm, not sure what to call it; you pass agricultural machinery). There’s a restaurant here (although I think it might be closed this year), and you need to buy an entrance ticket and then drive to the parking lot. There’s also camping available here if anyone wants to stay overnight.
Quiver trees are actually not trees but aloe shrubs. Their name derives from quiver, as in a bow and arrow quiver – apparently, they were used by the indigenous people to make bows. They bloom in red during the winter.
After leaving Giants Playground and Quiver Tree Forest, we’re in a race against time to reach the lodge before dark. We had planned to arrive earlier, but we left the lodge late, spent an hour in Mariental checking the car’s warning light, and then there were road repairs and waiting in passing zones.
On gravel roads, you can only drive a maximum of 80km/h, so we’re a bit stressed about whether we’ll make it before it gets dark. And in Africa, dark means dark. There are no street lights or lights in the distance. Instead, there are animals on the road. For example, a herd of oryx appears in front of us… Fortunately, we see them from a distance, so we have time to slow down for them to get off the road. When we park at Canyon Roadhouse, it’s already dark – it’s 6:30 PM.
On this day, we don’t eat anything during the day except for sandwiches with jam made on the go. Instead, we make up for it with dinner – it turns out they have really delicious food here – we recommend the burgers and garlic bread.
WHERE WE STAY: Canyon Roadhouse Lodge
Fish River Canyon and Canyon Roadhouse
Day 3. Today is a rest day, no long drives.
We sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast, and head to see the canyon around 9:00. It’s the largest canyon in Africa, the second-largest in the world (although when we were in Peru, they said Colca Canyon was the largest, so it’s hard to keep up).
Access to the main viewpoints is on gravel roads, but they’re quite decent. From Canyon Roadhouse, we first drive 10 kilometres to Hobas, where there’s a Visitors Centre (there’s also camping). There, you buy an entrance ticket and drive a few more kilometres. Unexpectedly, we see a lot of ostriches on the way, but also oryx and zebras.
In the canyon, we manage to reach four viewpoints. One eludes us, so we give up on it because these side roads are very rocky, and we don’t want to risk a flat tire. It’s windy, and the kids have scarves and hats on, which come in handy all the time. There are a few tourists, but we’re pretty much alone at each viewpoint. As we arrive, another car is leaving.
The canyon isn’t spectacular; I wouldn’t describe it as a must-see that you should go all the way to southern Namibia for. For us, it was an addition because we really wanted to see the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Heading so far south, the route naturally took us “past” the canyon.
However, while the canyon itself might not be mind-blowing, these few days in the south were worth the long drive. At Canyon Roadhouse, we rest after the long journey, and the kids have a blast with the old cars. There’s also a pool on the Roadhouse grounds, but it’s too cold for swimming.
Roadhouse is full, and you can see that all the rooms are occupied. Lots of cars, motorcycles. And a lot of children, but they’re mostly school-aged. Ours are the youngest. And this is how it goes throughout our trip in Namibia – we mainly meet families with children, but they’re usually of school age. Only a few times do we see children our kids’ age or younger. These long drives can be tiring, and not everyone wants to embark on such adventures with young children.
We spend the rest of the day at Roadhouse. Dinner confirms that the food is really good here – I take Fryderyk’s steak, and I eat it myself; it literally melts in your mouth…
Then we visit more wrecked cars – after all, this was the main reason for booking here for two nights. The kids have a blast!
The place is really well maintained. The number of cars, licence plates, and other car-related elements are impressive. I can wholeheartedly recommend this place as a stopover on the way. The decor is incredibly atmospheric – much cooler than at the very famous Solitaire (where we also stayed later in our trip).
WHERE WE STAY: Canyon Roadhouse Lodge
Luderitz and Kolmanskop
Day 4: Today, we’re doing the route from Fish River Canyon/Canyon Roadhouse to Kolmanskop to Luderitz, about 400 kilometers.
We leave Canyon Roadhouse at around 7:40 in the morning because we want to visit Kolmanskop on the way. We make a stop in Aus, not expecting anything special there, but it turns out to be a nice little place. Just be cautious with the cakes – they look delicious but are so sweet that one serving could feed the whole family…
We arrive at Kolmanskop around 1:20 PM. At the last moment, we catch an employee who’s already counting the money for the day, waiting for his ride, and is supposed to leave. He sells us photographic permits, which are basically entrance tickets (more expensive) that allow entry after the regular opening hours. He leaves us a gate code and goes on his way…
If we hadn’t made it today, we would have had to wait until the next day. Perhaps you can buy a photo permit in Luderitz and come here on your own. But it’s Sunday, and as it turns out, everything in Luderitz closes at 1:00 PM…
Kolmanskop is a ghost town, a ghost town that has become a popular tourist attraction. In 1910, a German working on the railway found a diamond here. It quickly became apparent that this was an area rich in diamonds. In just 20 years, an entire town sprouted up, complete with a casino, hotel, and restaurants. But it was abandoned in the 1950s when another diamond-rich area with easier mining was discovered.
The number of buildings and their appearance are impressive, considering that everything was built in just 20-30 years. They are still in fairly decent condition (oh, German construction), but the sand infiltrating the interiors is probably causing damage. We don’t go everywhere because, honestly, I’m a bit afraid and unsure if it’s safe.
If someone has more time, they can opt for a guided tour, which is available every day at 10:00 and 12:00. Unfortunately, we couldn’t afford an extra day in the area, so we had to make do with what we saw on our own. The area is quite extensive, and exploring it in the sun with two small children tired us out a bit. Unfortunately, they are still at an age where we often have to carry one of them or negotiate for a long time to get them to move forward.
We don’t get to see anything in Luderitz because we’re starving, so we immediately head to the only open restaurant: Portuguese Fisherman. The food is very tasty; we recommend it, but be prepared for incredibly long waits. So, by the time we manage to eat, it’s already late, and the kids are strongly demanding to return to the room.
In Luderitz, it’s apparently worth taking a walk on Bergstrase Street. However, I couldn’t find it on the map. You can also drive down Kreplin Road to Shark Island – that’s what we do because we’re staying in this area – it’s a fairly short street with houses on the cliff overlooking the ocean. However, if you don’t have time, you’re not missing much by skipping the tour. We drive around the town a bit, but we don’t even get out for a walk because it doesn’t look inviting. Everything is closed, and there aren’t many people. It’s just one of those towns that remind us of small towns in Australia (and maybe it looks similar in the USA, but we haven’t been there).
We had hoped to do some shopping in Luderitz to prepare for a few nights of camping. But it turns out that since it’s Sunday, all the grocery stores closed at 1:00 PM. Gas stations also don’t have much to offer. We have to change our plans a bit because we have a very long drive ahead, and the next day we need to leave early. We can’t wait for the grocery stores to open.
Leaving after shopping, which would realistically be after 8:30, would mean arriving at our destination just before dark and hurriedly setting up tents. It was supposed to be our first night in tents, so we wanted to do it calmly. While waiting forever for the dishes at Portuguese Fisherman, we make a decision – instead of camping in Sesriem, we will sleep in the lodge. We manage to find something very nice and reasonably priced on Booking.com – we immediately book it for two nights: Desert Camp.
WHERE WE STAY: Room with a water view at Shark Island
Dunes in Sossusvlei: Sesriem Canyon
Day 5: Drive from Luderitz to Sesriem, via C13 -> C14 -> C19
We leave Luderitz at around 7:30 because it’s only getting light at that time. Driving in the dark is not enjoyable since you can’t see anything, it’s hard to figure out where the roadside is, and whether any animals are on the road. Besides, the rental company prohibits night driving. In case of an accident, they need to know what happened and when because the cars have recorders and GPS that track the route and time.
We stop for breakfast at Klein-Aus Lodge in Aus because we don’t have any food with us, and everything else in the area is closed. Unfortunately, the food is pretty average. We didn’t have much choice because we still hadn’t done any shopping since the first day.
After breakfast, we continue on the gravel road. The drive seems endless, so we make an unplanned stop in Helmeringhausen, a town in the middle of nowhere, at the intersection of two gravel roads. We notice a charming café with a beautiful garden (they also have rooms for overnight stays). We enjoy a delicious apple pie, take a break, soak up the sun, and reluctantly continue our journey.
We reach the Sesriem gate at around 3:00 PM. We sort out the permits, grab some mediocre burgers at the on-site restaurant, and decide to visit Sesriem Canyon, which is nearby and can be accessed from the entrance.
We arrive at the canyon around 4:00 PM. The canyon isn’t extremely spectacular, but it’s a good place to stretch your legs after a long drive. Additionally, a significant portion of the canyon is already in the shade at this time, making it easier to explore. However, if you’re hunting for great shots, it’s better to be there in the morning when the sun illuminates the rocks more beautifully.
We spend the evening in front of our chalet. We’re amazed by how beautiful it is here. We have a view of nothing but a tree with a bird’s nest, social weavers, oryx, and a big moon. It’s a wonderful evening, African, warm, and orange, just the way I love Africa.
WHERE WE STAY: Desert Camp
Dunes in Sossusvlei: Dead Vlei
Day 6: Exploring the Dunes
At 6:30 AM, we head to the lodge next door for breakfast because we don’t have any food, so we have to use the restaurant. To reach the famous dunes and the Dead Vlei valley, you have to pass through two gates. The outer gate of the park opens at around 7:30 AM during this time of year. When we line up at around 7:40 AM, there are about 20 cars ahead of us.
If someone wants to take photos of the dunes at sunrise, the only option is to stay at the camping site or lodges within the park. In that case, you don’t have to wait for the outer gate to open because the inner gate is opened before sunrise.
We had a camping reservation inside the park, but due to the long drive and lack of food, we decided to stay outside in the lodge. We had booked it for one night before arriving.
The road to the famous Dune 45 is an all-asphalt road, and the number 45 indicates that it is 45 km from the gate. So, if someone wants to be there at sunrise, there’s no chance to get there if you sleep outside the park. The same goes for sunset – there’s no chance to reach the gate before it closes after sunset.
Personally, I don’t think it’s such a big attraction to be on the dunes at sunrise or sunset that you should plan accommodations around it. We were at Dead Vlei around 9:00 AM, and it looked just as impressive. By 11:00 AM, it was already very hot.
Access to Dead Vlei: It’s actually the only place in Namibia where we needed a four-wheel-drive with high clearance. When the asphalt ends, there’s about 4 km of sandy road to reach the parking area for Dead Vlei. This stretch can also be covered by a local “bus” that runs regularly. We wouldn’t recommend driving a regular car; one car got stuck next to us – it wasn’t an SUV but more like a regular SUV with a relatively low suspension. It’s better not to stop on this deep sand road because it’s difficult to get going again. Consequently, I didn’t take great photos since it’s hard to take decent shots when the car is shaking and tilting…
While driving, we stressed about getting stuck. A few times, we literally felt deep sand under the wheels. However, deflating the tires seems to be crucial because we made it to the parking lot and back without any problems.
To get to Dead Vlei from the parking lot, there are three paths after leaving the parking area:
- Straight ahead is the easiest and shortest path directly to the valley. Just follow the white poles and all the people. If you’re not sure if you’re going the right way – you are, just keep going forward. After a short time, you’ll see the poles, and everything will become clear.
- If you want to climb up a dune, take pictures from the top, and then run straight down to the valley via the dune (a popular way to explore Dead Vlei), you should go more to the left. There will definitely be a lot of people going that way, so just follow them towards the back of the dune.
- The third option is to climb Big Daddy dune.
We take the easiest path because climbing dunes with preschoolers, especially in such heat, is too much for us. These are not dunes like the ones in Łeba, Poland; these are gigantic dunes!
Viewing Dead Vlei from the bottom is enough for us. We spend about 2-3 hours here. Some people even do whole photo shoots here, so it takes them longer. I feel sorry for those who have to walk back to the car in this heat – it’s quite a distance.
We spend the middle of the day at the lodge, chilling by the pool. But what kind of chillout is it? Sipping non-alcoholic drinks, we watch a herd of oryx that comes to a nearby tree.
After 4:00 PM, we head out to take some photos in the setting sun. We don’t go back to Dead Vlei this time (one trip through the sand was enough), we only stop at dunes 40 and 45. There are definitely fewer people; it seems everyone explores the area in the morning.
WHERE WE STAY: Desert Camp
Swakopmund
Dzień 7: Przejazd Sesriem –> Swakopmund
We set out at 7:20 AM. On the way, we make a stop in the famous Solitaire. We manage to arrive while there are still few cars, just three including ours. But when we leave, it’s crowded with several tour buses and a lot of off-road vehicles.
Solitaire is a good place for a pleasant break – you can have coffee, eat a tasty bun from the bakery, and refuel your vehicle.
About 40 kilometers further towards Swakopmund, we cross the Tropic of Capricorn. To avoid missing the sign, first look for signs for the Rostock Ritz Lodge. The Tropic of Capricorn sign is about 4-5 km further down the road.
Afterward, the road is long and uneventful. Then it becomes winding, hilly, and scenic. Later on, it gets very bumpy, and there’s not much of interest around. About 60 km before Walvis Bay, you’ll start to encounter something resembling asphalt, and there’s proper asphalt about 20 km before Walvis Bay.
Driving through Walvis Bay, you can see water on the left with flamingos wading. It’s not an especially beautiful spot because on the right, there are mostly industrial areas. However, you can stop and observe the flamingos. There are quite a few of them, and they are relatively close to the road, even during the day.
After reaching our accommodation, where we stay for three nights, we have the energy only to go to the nearby oceanfront promenade. Fortunately, it’s beautiful here, and we don’t need to drive to the center of Swakopmund to find a restaurant.
It turns out that we’re staying in a fairly new housing development, and right next door is a shopping center, the oceanfront promenade, and several nice-looking eateries. We decide to have dinner at Fisherman’s Kitchen. The food is truly delicious, and we highly recommend it. The steak literally melts in your mouth, and the oysters are top-notch.
WHERE WE STAY: A cottage near the oceanfront promenade at The Waterfront Cottage F12
Swakopmund: Living Desert Tour
Day 6: Living Desert Tour
Today, we have a Living Desert Tour booked, which involves driving through the dunes and searching for the “Little Five,” which are tiny creatures that inhabit the desert. It’s a very popular attraction here, and we made reservations via email while still in Poland.
Before 8:00 AM, our guide picks us up from our cottage, and we head to the desert to see these creatures. The beginning doesn’t look promising, but the tour becomes really interesting later on. We see a legless lizard, a gecko, a chameleon, beetles, and snakes. However, for the kids, the highlight is driving on the dunes, with steep descents and ascents.
At one point, a mini sandstorm kicks up, and we see the sand swirling over the dunes. When we stop to observe a chameleon, the wind is so strong that we have to walk with our eyes closed or hide under our hats – sand gets everywhere, and wearing glasses doesn’t help much; I have a lot of sand in my eyes.
Around noon, we return to our cottage. It’s still quite early, so we decide to drive to Cape Cross to see the fur seals. We had planned to visit on our way to Spitzkoppe, but since we have the whole afternoon free, we don’t want to postpone it.
In retrospect, it was a good decision because it gives us more time to relax at Spitzkoppe, and the encounter with the fur seals was quite unique, as you’ll read below.
Swakopmund: Afternoon at Cape Cross
Day 6: Afternoon at Cape Cross
Cape Cross is about a 1.5-hour drive from Swakopmund. Here, you can see an enormous colony of fur seals. Some people had discouraged us from this trip, but the prospect of thousands of fur seals in one place was too tempting, regardless of the smell.
First, you drive to a gate where there’s a reception building, and you buy tickets there. It doesn’t smell here yet. Then you drive about 3 kilometers. We keep the car windows closed because it’s hot, and the air conditioning is on. When we arrive at the parking area, we already see hundreds of seals. I open the car door to get out, and… I close it immediately.
Yes, it smells.
I think it’s something you get used to after a while. It’s a momentary reaction. So, I try again to get out of the car. I open the doors for the kids, but they immediately tell me to close them… They say they’re not going anywhere. Alright, they can watch from the car. Fryderyk only gets out for a moment to walk a few steps closer. I, armed with my camera, decide to “explore.”
Aside from the smell (which is quite shocking), the seals make terrible noises. It’s like they’re screaming all the time. There’s a lot of growling, mooing, and shouting. It’s loud, it stinks, and it’s unpleasant. And what do they smell like? They smell like fish, but also like decomposing bodies, rotten meat. Because here, there are not only live and young seals; there are also hundreds of dead seals. And everything crawls over each other, shifts around, and shouts. Truly a peculiar experience.
Afterward, the smell is all over our car. We can’t completely air it out. When we get on the main road, where the smell of the seals no longer reaches, we open the windows, but it doesn’t help much. I smell the worst – not just my clothes, but also my hair and literally my entire body. Nella wants to kick me out of the car. When we get back to our cottage, I immediately head for the shower. All the clothes go into the laundry – fortunately, we have a washing machine and dryer.
Pro tip: If you plan to visit fur seals on your way to another distant place, it’s a good idea to wear dirty clothes, and then after leaving the area, change into clean ones and put the dirty clothes in a plastic bag. You might also want a scarf for your hair because you’ll smell like fish until you wash it off.
I spent about 20 minutes outside the car with the fur seals…
The afternoon is spent in Swakopmund. However, the town doesn’t quite meet our expectations; it’s not our kind of atmosphere. Wolfgang, our guide from the boat tour, shows us where to find a cheap and good take-away restaurant (if you’re interested, it’s the blue booth in the picture below – it’s located in the parking lot next to the Oceanarium).
The food is decent, but the area is just okay. There’s an ocean, a promenade, but also a lot of begging people. They approach you, follow you. We’re not entirely sure how to handle these situations, so in the end, we eat quickly and leave. In the meantime, we see that many locals drive up to the take-away in their cars, order, and wait for their food inside the car. They don’t even get out of the car; the staff from the booth brings their orders to them.
We stop by a market near the museum. The driver had mentioned that it’s a good place to buy souvenirs because they’re sold by locals. Well, there are locals, and I see a few nice things, but the vendors are so pushy that it’s discouraging to browse, bargain, and buy. We can’t even look properly at what they’re selling because they surround us and urge us to make purchases.
We buy some small souvenirs for the kids and lose interest in exploring Swakopmund’s center. We head back “home.” The next day, we book a boat tour from Walvis Bay.
Walvis Bay: Boat Tour with Pelicans and Seals
Day 7: Boat Tour from Walvis Bay
The boat tour begins at 8:30 AM, and we need to be at Walvis Bay Harbor by 8:15 AM. The drive from our Swakopmund accommodation takes 40 minutes. We set our alarms for 6:00 AM and hit the road by 7:00 AM.
We arrive slightly early and have time for a warming coffee and tea at the harbor. The entrance to the port doesn’t look promising, but it turns out there are several restaurants and souvenir shops. You can have a pleasant time here even while waiting for the tour.
Our boat has a group from the Czech Republic as well. It’s a good thing we booked in advance because I’m not sure they could have accommodated us otherwise. There are many boats, but also many tourists.
The boat tour turns out to be a very enjoyable experience, especially for the kids. Shortly after we set off, a pelican and then a seal join us. The kids are thrilled.
Our guide tells us various interesting facts about pelicans and seals. We also see an oyster farm and learn about the origins of the abandoned ships in the area. Finally, we sail close to the fur seal colony, which, thankfully, smells less than it did at Cape Cross.
At one point, the weather changes dramatically. The wind picks up, the sun disappears, and we all seek shelter below deck. Fortunately, there’s hot coffee and tea, and the crew serves lunch. There are fresh oysters, as well as calamari, fish, chicken, spring rolls – everything is truly delicious. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos because it was quite rocky, cramped, and the kids required our attention.
We didn’t have high expectations for this tour, as it was an optional attraction for us. However, it turned out to be really enjoyable. In fact, the kids liked it more than the desert tour from the previous day.
Walvis Bay: 4×4 Tour to Sandwich Harbour
Day 7 in the Afternoon: 4×4 Tour to Sandwich Harbour
In the afternoon, we embark on a tour to Sandwich Harbour. We hadn’t planned this attraction at all, but the guide on the boat subtly encouraged us. It was our mistake not to ask about the price. After we arrive back at the harbor, we inquire at the tour office and find out it costs about 1500 PLN for our family of four. However, for us, it’s too expensive because we thought it would be roughly the same price as the boat tour. We don’t even try to haggle; we simply say it’s too much for us, and we didn’t expect such a cost. And of course, a driver immediately offers to take us for the price of the boat tour.
We have an hour break, use the restroom, do some quick shopping, and set off. We don’t really know what to expect – something about driving on the dunes and flamingos.
The beginning is boring because we have to drive about 36 kilometers to reach Sandwich Harbour. But then the fun begins – steep dune climbs and descents. We didn’t expect such steep descents at all. We drive in a convoy of several cars, mainly for safety reasons in case someone gets stuck.
We reach a point where the dunes descend straight into the ocean. The tour is much better than we expected. It’s not just some quad biking on hills; it’s a proper off-road experience. The driving skills of the guides are impressive.
The kids really enjoy this type of driving and playing in the sand. The tour is well-organized because there’s enough time to take photos and walk on the dunes and do whatever you like at the stops.
We return to the harbor around 5:00 PM. We’re hungry because our cheaper tour, which was two-thirds of the price, didn’t include meals, and we returned about an hour earlier. The others stayed for dinner on the dunes and to watch the sunset. We didn’t mind paying only a third of the price and returning earlier because the kids were already exhausted.
We enjoy a delicious dinner at the Jetty restaurant at the harbor and head back to Swakopmund when it’s already dark. On the way, we encounter a sandstorm – for the past two days, the wind has been blowing from the east, carrying sand from the desert into the town.
Tip for traveling with kids: During most of the boat tour, the sun was shining beautifully. However, it was still cold, so we had hats and windproof fleeces for the kids. We also brought our own hoodies and jackets, and they were quite useful. Even below deck, it was cold when the clouds suddenly appeared. The temperature dropped a few degrees instantly.
Spitzkoppe
Day 10: Drive and Stay in Spitzkoppe
We leave Swakopmund around 9:00 in the morning, first refueling and shopping at the Shell station. We plan to go to the supermarket, but in the end, we manage to buy everything we need at the station store.
We arrive in Spitzkoppe around 11:00. The drive is short and trouble-free. It’s very peaceful here. We drive around the camping area to choose a nice spot to set up our camp. It’s hard to determine the best spot, so we choose a place near the Bridge marker with a view of the peak. It looks beautiful in the setting sun.
This is our first night camping in tents. Setting up takes us an hour (we have two tents, and it’s our first time doing this). We spend the rest of the day playing with the kids in the shade (it’s hot…) and in the evening, we climb the rocks to see the area bathed in the setting sun.
Where We Stay: Local camping site
Twyfelfontein
Day 11: Drive and Stay in Twyfelfontein
The road is terrible. Only at Twyfelfontein does asphalt appear. We drive through the mountains. The views are beautiful, but today we’re exceptionally tired of driving. Fortunately, we arrive early, and most of the day is spent by the pool or searching for lizards among the rocks.
Unfortunately, we don’t manage to go on a rock art tour to see the petroglyphs. It turns out our kids are too young, and they won’t allow us on the trail. It’s a bit disappointing because we traveled a long way (of course, I didn’t find information online beforehand that kids couldn’t go). However, we use the rest of the day to rest after the long drive. The place is beautiful, and we enjoy the landscape with red rocks and sand.
Where We Stay: Twyfelfontein Country Lodge
Palmwag – Best Camping and Worst Wind
Day 12: Drive and Stay in Palmwag
In the morning, we leave the wonderful Twyfelfontein Country Lodge. In hindsight, I regret not extending our stay there by one day. Just to relax and do nothing. Especially because our camping plan fell apart later – but more on that below. The road from Twyfelfontein to Palmwag is HORRIBLE. It shakes terribly, and we drive slowly, changing sides from time to time (in Namibia, traffic is on the left). Sometimes we drive on the right, sometimes on the left, looking for smoother patches. And when we’re on the final stretch, we get a flat tire. 10 minutes before reaching the campsite. We have no idea how to change the tire, but fortunately, a family from Copenhagen stops. The dad and son immediately jump out of the car to help us. They know exactly what to do – apparently, they’ve been on many road trips on gravel roads, and changing tires is a common occurrence for them.
Where We Stay: Palmwag Campsite
3 Days in Etosha National Park – Safari in Africa with Young Children
Day 13: Transfer to Toshari Lodge
Day 14: Etosha
Day 15: Etosha
Day 16: Transfer through Etosha to Ohange
During our safari in Etosha, we stayed three nights at Toshari Lodge, located 30 km from Anderson Gate and about 40 minutes from Okaukuejo. Initially, we planned to spend three nights camping in Etosha. We had booked two nights at Okaukuejo and one night at Namutoni. However, after a very unpleasant night in Palmwag, we gave up on further nights in tents.
Why did we give up on camping on the roof of the car?
At the Palmwag campsite, it was so windy at night that we managed to sleep only a few hours with interruptions. It wasn’t a specific characteristic of the place; it just happened that the weather turned bad, and as it turned out, the strong wind continued for several days.
The wind was so strong that when we stopped the car for a moment, I couldn’t open the door. Eventually, we didn’t get out of the car because we were afraid that if we managed to open the doors, the wind would actually tear them off. We couldn’t imagine sleeping in a rooftop tent in such windy conditions.
But, at the same time, we realized something else – we had planned to camp in tents during our stay in Etosha (and earlier at the dunes in Sesriem). For a safari to make sense, you need to start early in the morning so that you can be near waterholes at sunrise when the animals gather. This meant that we had to pack up the camp and tents at 5:00 in the morning, in complete darkness and in the cold (it was around 5 degrees Celsius at that time in Namibia). It was completely impractical, especially with two small children. In fact, it would be exhausting even without children.
Don’t ask why we didn’t think this through earlier. I think it’s because there are very few accounts on the internet about traveling to Namibia with small children, and the few that exist didn’t emphasize this aspect. So, I want to emphasize – if you’re planning a safari to Namibia with small children, think twice about whether you want to camp.
Additionally, I read very negative reviews about the campsites inside the park. We didn’t have a chance to verify this because we ended up staying at Toshari Lodge near the entrance gate. However, we visited all the campsites: Okaukuejo, Halali, and Namutoni, and the service there is terrible. To the extent that we couldn’t even have dinner because no one wanted to serve us. I wouldn’t expect a relaxing stay there.
So, the question is, is it really worth the trouble and sleeping in those tents inside the park? In my opinion, not at all. The whole fuss is because the park gate opens at 7:00 in the morning. Then there’s still a bit of driving to do. And realistically, when you get to a waterhole, it’s not that early anymore. But… we entered the park just as the gate was opening, and I seriously don’t know what we were supposed to see there earlier. It’s not like you have to drive for another half hour from the gate to see animals because animals go wherever they want. You can encounter a lion 5 km past the gate. And our favorite waterhole was right there, the first one, where we saw herds of zebras every morning in the rising sun.
Safari in Etosha Day 1
On the first morning, we booked a game drive (safari) with a driver from the lodge. We decided to see how it works in this park, even though we had been to Addo Elephant Park in South Africa and two parks in Uganda before.
We set off before sunrise to make it to the gate opening. It’s terribly cold; I have tea for the kids in thermoses, windproof jackets, hats, scarves. We also have warm clothing, but we’re driving in an open car, and it’s just freezing.
The kids hide under the blankets provided by the driver. We see the first animals, and the kids are excited, but after another hour of driving, they are so cold, and it’s so windy that they don’t even want to peek out from under the blankets to look at the animals. With the driver, we see two lions and three rhinos – one by the road and two in the distance, which we observe through binoculars. However, we ask the driver to end the safari early. He takes us back to the gate where we left our car. It’s past 12:00.
When we switch to the car warmed by the sun, the kids suddenly regain their energy and mood (as expected). We have packed lunch from the lodge, and we eat it in the car on our way back into the park. Now, we can see the animals much better. Earlier, at some point, I didn’t even take photos because my fingers were so stiff from the cold that I couldn’t hold the camera. The wind makes visibility terrible, but we spot a huge herd of elephants at a watering hole and other animals.
Safari Day 2 in Etosha
Today, we’re driving in our own car, and it’s warmer than yesterday. The wind has stopped, and visibility has improved. We pass through the gate around 8:05 – 8:15 and head to Halali, which is roughly in the middle of the park. Along the way, we visit more waterholes.
In Halali, we want to stop and take a break. Driving through these vast landscapes is quite exhausting. We got up early in the morning, and the kids need to stretch their legs. But Halali is disappointing; we arrive there around 11:00, and you can’t even get coffee or any snacks. So, we’re hungry. It’s a good thing we have various snacks (unfortunately, mostly sweet) in the car. On this day, we see cheetahs, giraffes drinking water, and huge herds of animals along the main road.
Safari Day 3 in Etosha
We enter the park around 8:15 – 8:20. We head to the eastern part of the park. The park is enormous, so after making several stops along the way to observe animals at waterholes, we only arrive there around 11:30. In Namutoni, we manage to eat something and have a pleasant break. The highlight was the mongooses that suddenly swarmed into the restaurant. On this day, we see many elephants and a rhinoceros.
We don’t return to Toshari Lodge for the night; instead, we leave through the gate and go to another place for two nights. We arrive at the lodge around 18:00. Tonight, we’re staying at Ohange Namibia Lodge. We arrive just in time to see the animals gathering at the watering hole.
Ohange Lodge – Relaxing in the Lodge with Giraffes, Ostriches, and Antelopes
Day 17 – A Full Day at Ohange Lodge
Initially, we planned to stay at Ohange for only one night – arriving late in the evening and leaving early in the morning. It was supposed to be just a stopover on our way from Etosha to the south towards Okonjima.
However, a change in plans – canceling camping in Etosha – meant that we ended up staying here for two nights and had one full day of sweet leisure. The place is quite unique – locals come here for lunch and overnight stays, which adds a lot of charm to it.
I had the opportunity to talk to local workers who stay here for training workers on a construction project (I think it had to do with some mining infrastructure, but I didn’t understand all the English words). Anyway, they live in Walvis Bay and are here on assignment.
Twice, American military personnel stationed somewhere nearby also came for lunch. And for dessert – the animals – Eland antelopes.
For the kids, the attraction is once again the animals. This time, we see Eland antelopes, which we’ve never seen before. This place is also a paradise for bird watchers – various types of birds in various colors fly in and make funny sounds that our kids try to mimic.
WHERE WE STAY: Ohange Namibia Lodge
Otjibamba Lodge – Giraffe, Antelopes, and Ostriches just for us
Day 18 – Transfer to Otjibamba Lodge and the Rest of the Day Relaxing on the Terrace with Animals
After 10:00, we leave Ohange Lodge and head to Otjibamba Lodge. We arrive at our destination before 12:00. We had already booked our stay here before arriving in Namibia. It was supposed to be two days of relaxation and rest after an intense journey and before our return. The place turned out to be perfect.
Although it was too cold to swim in the pool (which I was hoping for), the presence of animals and the opportunity to observe them directly from the terrace of our room more than made up for it.
It was indeed the perfect ending to our first African adventure as a family of four. Antelopes roamed everywhere, giraffes kept coming, and the ostriches never left the waterhole.
Together with the kids, we watched as an ostrich scared off an antelope with its giant wings. The giraffe came very close to us while we sipped on coffee and tea. Moreover, it was incredibly peaceful in the lodge. On the first afternoon, we were the only guests. On the second day, only a few more people arrived.
If you have an evening flight from Windhoek and are looking for a pleasant place to conclude your stay, it’s definitely worth it. Just make sure you get a room at the front so that you can see the animals all the time. At first, they gave us a room in the second row from the waterhole, but when Fryderyk asked, they switched us to the one in the front (with no extra charge, and there were no other guests).
WHERE WE STAY: Otjibamba Lodge
AfriCat Foundation – A Close Encounter with Cheetahs
Day 19: Morning Trip to AfriCat, Afternoon Relaxation at Otjibamba Lodge After breakfast, we head to the center where you can see cheetahs. We’re not entirely sure what to expect, as the information on the website is unclear.
On-site, it turns out that most attractions are only available to guests staying in the lodges or camping here. We didn’t know this beforehand. But, in the end, we don’t miss out on much because it turns out that the only cool additional attraction is tracking leopards, which we couldn’t do with our kids (minimum age is 9-10 years, depending on height).
What we can do as external visitors is take a tour around the area and see the five cheetahs that live here. We also visit the “mini-museum,” a room that explains how this place was established. Historically, it was supposed to protect cheetahs acquired from farmers in other regions. However, it turned out that leopards live in this area in their natural habitat, and they don’t get along with cheetahs – they kill them.
The place has transformed into an area protecting leopards, and only five cheetahs that arrived here at the age of three months when their mothers were killed remain. These five cheetahs are not wild animals. They are fed by staff and live in a large but enclosed area. It’s interesting to see them up close, but a much more exciting encounter for us was an unexpected meeting with a cheetah in Etosha.
Another attraction is other animals – we see zebras, wildebeests, and for the first time in Namibia, kudu and guinea fowl.
Near Okonjima, there’s another place known for cheetahs – the Cheetah Conservation Fund, but we didn’t decide to go there anymore, and it’s hard for us to say whether cheetahs live in their natural habitat there. I couldn’t find reliable information about what to expect there on the internet. It would be possible to visit both places in one day, but with small children on board, it would have been too intense for us.
While at AfriCat, we heard the opinions of people who spent the night there and were totally thrilled. So if you go there, it’s better to focus on leopards and plan for an overnight stay without young children under 9-10 years old.
LINK TO AFRICAT FOUNDATION: AfriCat Foundation
Markets in Okahandja and Windhoek
Day 20: Markets and Departure to Frankfurt
On the way to the airport, we stop at a souvenir market in Okahandja. We don’t buy anything interesting. There are many wooden crafts, but nothing special. We leave quickly and still have plenty of time for our flight, so we decide to go to a market in Windhoek.
I highly recommend the Craft Centre at Tal Street in Windhoek. Not only is there a wide selection of unusual, quality souvenirs, but there is also a very pleasant restaurant in the building, as well as parking right under the market.
After 15:00, we’re already at the car rental agency. Returning the car takes over an hour. We also wait for transport to the airport – the rental agency is about half an hour from the airport, and a small bus takes us there. But only when a group gathers. Everything is well-organized here, and we all take the same evening flights – there are two to Frankfurt.
Return on July 18, Day 20 of the trip
What else you can see in Namibia
When planning our trip to Namibia, we consciously decided to forgo seeing a few places, and some were dropped from the plan during the trip. With three weeks and traveling without young children (or with slightly older ones), it would be possible to have a more packed itinerary. However, we gave ourselves plenty of time for relaxation in the lodges and just enjoyed the sight of animals and landscapes.
- Epupa Falls: These waterfalls, located in the remote northwestern part of Namibia, offer a stunning natural spectacle. The falls are surrounded by lush vegetation, making it a beautiful contrast to the desert landscapes you’ll see elsewhere.
- Guided Tour of the Ghost Town: Kolmanskop, a ghost town near Lüderitz, is a fascinating place to explore. It was once a thriving diamond mining town and is now abandoned, with sand slowly reclaiming the buildings. A guided tour can provide historical insights.
- Cultural Villages or Visits to Indigenous Tribes: Getting closer to the northern regions and meeting the Himba, Damara, or Herero people can be a unique and culturally enriching experience. These tribes have rich traditions and offer an opportunity to learn about their way of life.
- Swakopmund: While in Swakopmund, you can take a car trip to visit attractions like Welwitschia Drive and the Moon Landscape. The Welwitschia Drive showcases ancient and unusual plants, while the Moon Landscape is a fascinating geological formation.
- Meteorite: Namibia is home to the world’s largest meteorite, the Hoba Meteorite, which is located near Grootfontein. If you’re interested in astronomy and geology, this could be an intriguing visit.
- Brandberg Massif: The Brandberg is Namibia’s highest mountain and is known for its beautiful landscapes, rock formations, and ancient rock art. A hike in this area can be a great adventure for nature enthusiasts.
These additions can provide a more diverse experience of Namibia, covering culture, nature, and history beyond the wildlife and landscapes you’ve already explored.
